I was just digging through some bolts looking for info for another post here and came across my 'heli-coil box'. It's a little plastic storage tote with nothing but heli-coils, the tools & taps for installing them, the taps for the size hole they are repairing if i just want to make a new hole and thread it and the drill bits for all the above combos.
What do you do when you strip out threads in aluminum? You either drill and tap a larger bolt side (and use a larger bolt), or install an insert. One of the most popular varieties is called a Helicoil™, which looks a lot like a spring made of square wire. Helicoil Insert Basically you drill a larger hole, tap new threads, screw a. Here I show you the steps in the process of installing a Helicoil threaded insert to repair a stripped hole.
I do mainly metric so i keep m6 x 1.M8 x 1.25 and M10 x 1. Driver Cm23e Usb Rf Receiver more. 25 and of course i have a few standards 3/8 x 24. 7/16 x 18 and one other one.
When I build an aluminum block or head engine if the customer is up for it and knows what i do about aluminum and threads I'll do a complete block or head if they have the money for it (some do) and then i just feel like it's 'built ford tough' LOL Personally on my car i do as many as i can in spurts when i have something off or have a head machined or anything like that. Aside from wishing i could find an easier way to bore the new hole straight, it is for some reasom, something i absolutely love to do.kinda weird i gues but oh well So anyone else nuts over heli-coils?????
I cannot even imagine it. I would spend my hard earned money on studs LONG before I wasted my time cutting out sevicable threads only to install repair threads right back into aluminum, only bigger. Once you have installed a heli-coil and it strips you have a real problem. As far as doing all of an entire assembly by hand after it was done by a precision mill?? Even if you was to do this with a bare block in a big mill it would need to be designed into an assembly because you are cutting so much meat out of an aluminum part only to still impart a twisting force on it. Studs eliminate twisting force and have to be pulled out vs stripping. IMO user installed heli-coils are a method to simply 'get by' when something goes bad wrong.
Factory installed steel thread inserts are application specific and are the correct length for the bolt and installed during production. Download Mp3 Dangdut Koplo Palapa 2014. It just is not the same. If I was gonna do something THAT crazy I would drill/thread the block out to accept bigger STUDS and then drill out the heads to accept them.
Just my opinion tho.YMMV. ****, I guess i'm the only one then:P I won't even put a exhaust mani on a turbo car untill the threads have been heli-coiled unless it's a new casting (your 'perfectly good hole' then i wouldn't either). But from the years i worked on road race cars (porsche club 944's 928's 911's etc. ) The rules of the shop i worked in were that we wouldn't assemble a used block without thembeing used on all the exhaust mani and block bolts for the brackets, turbo supports, cooler lines and cooler housings on the block. Half the time the holes in the block after some 5-8 even 10 years of service are so worn out in the threads that you can't even torque half the accessories to spec.
Before they strip out. Maybe it's just that the cars i've done them on lead very hard lives, running maxed out about 95% of the time and being stripped, inspected and repaired/re-assembled every season I've never had a heli-coil strip (and yes i know it's only a brand name) but then again i always torque things correctly and use anti sieze on everything aluminum. I can see good use for them especially where repetitious use is required. I too have seen threads in alum give up after a couple times. I like EZ-lok better than helicoil though but in alum I imagine heli's are good, maybe even better as they have less thermal mass of dissimilar materials????Yea, i just stick with heli-coil brand because thye've never let me down and are claimed to be stainless steel. PLus i dn't know much about the EZ-lok.